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Hestia Brussels Sprouts Seeds

$4.95

Hestia Brussels Sprouts Seeds

$4.95
SKU:
V-3134
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Brassica - oleracea (Gemmifera group)

semillas de col de Bruselas

Item #V-3134 | 50 Untreated Seeds | Price: $4.95

 

aaslogo.jpg100 Days to Maturity. Hestia Brussels sprouts are heavy bearing, richly flavored and adapted to a wide range of climates. Medium-sized, smooth sprouts are bright green with dense yellow interiors. Its upright plants are strong and somewhat more compact than other varieties. Tolerant to both heat and cold. Plants are short and resistant to lodging. For early and mid fall harvest. AAS Regional (Southeast, Mountain/Southwest)

 

 

 

Vegetable Garden – Tips on Growing Brussels Sprouts From Seed

Brussels sprouts are a slow-growing, cool season crop that is a sun-loving long-bearing plant. The ideal climate is the "fog belt" of the Pacific Northwest, but they will grow in just about any part of the country. Plant in mid- to late summer for a crop that matures in the fall. The small heads mature best in cool and even in light frosty weather. Spring planting is also fine in cooler climates. Be aware that sprouts maturing in hot or dry weather will be flimsy and bitter. 

It takes some time for sprouts to mature, so you will begin to harvest them about twenty weeks after sowing. Sprout formation will begin at the base of the stalk; to encourage development of the upper sprouts for uniform maturity, pinch out the growing tip of the plant in late summer when bottom sprout is as big as an average thumb. Or, harvest sprouts individually from the bottom of the stalk when they are about 1-1.5” in diameter. Fall planted Brussels sprouts will become sweeter after a few light frosts.

Brussels sprouts get large, so they need to be about 24 inches apart in a row or bed. If planted in rows, space rows 30 inches apart to give you enough room to walk. Do not let transplants sit around for long, dry out, or they will get stunted in their pack. So plant right away.

Plant deeply so that only one half to one third of the plant is left above the soil. Water thoroughly after planting to encourage good growth. After planting, water with a starter fertilizer solution of fish emulsion or 20-20-20 mixed according to label directions. Mulch to keep the ground cool and moist. Water regularly, applying 1 to 1 1/2 inches of water a week in lieu of rain.

Sprouts first form at the bottom of the plant and continue forming toward the top for several weeks. Brussels sprouts are ready to harvest when the tiny heads are firm, green, and 1 to 2 inches in diameter. Remove sprouts by twisting them until they break away from the plant.

Leaf removal works by driving the energy of the plant into sprout growth, there are 2 ways to do this with 2 different results. A home gardener may wish to remove minimal leaves, this will give you more sprouts over a longer period of time, but only a few at a time on each plant. Just remove the bottom two or three rows of leaves, either cutting or snapping them off carefully so you do not damage the sprouts at the axils. Harvest the bottom sprouts as soon as they are about an inch in diameter. Then as each successive sprout reaches harvestable size remove the leaves below it and cut or twist off the sprout, leaving a small spur of stem on the plant. In a long mild fall, these spurs might produce another crop.

Or the commercial version is a bit drastic but this is how to do it, watch until the sprouts at the bottom are 1/2 to 3/4 inch in diameter. Then remove the top of the plant-including the growing point and the top rosette of leaves with it's tiny sprouts. The plant will now concentrate on the sprouts at hand - which will be ready in about one month. As long as it has its growing point and sprouts leaves and sprouts until daytime temperatures stay below 45 F, it will yield small harvests every 10 days or so for about 2 months. The sprouts that are the tastiest are improved by a light frost.

As you remove the lower sprouts, you can also remove yellowing leaves; the plant continues to grow upward, producing more leaves and sprouts. The plant will withstand frost and can be harvested until a hard freeze strikes. The best-quality sprouts are produced during sunny days with light frosts at night. As winter approaches, you can trick the sprouts into maturing all at once by cutting off the top of the plant about 3 weeks before you want to harvest.

One full-sized, healthy plant can bear 2 to 3 pounds of sprouts. They come quickly at first but will slow down as the weather gets colder. Full-grown sprouts keep well on the plant in cold weather, making them a great winter harvest item for gardeners in the South (planted in fall). In cold climates, gardeners often bury Brussels sprouts plants up to their tops in hay or leaves in late fall, then pull off the little sprouts as needed through winter.

Brussels sprouts also will need more boron than most other vegetables. Boron is a plant nutrient used in minute quantities by all plants; without it, Brussels sprouts develop hollow stems and small buds. If your plants have shown these symptoms, you can add boron to the soil by dissolving 1 level tablespoon of borax (such as 20 Mule Team from the grocery shelf) in 5 quarts of water and sprinkling it evenly over 50 square feet of bed. DO NOT be tempted to mix more, because too much causes problems. Also, do not apply unless your plants have shown the deficiency symptoms we just mentioned.

  • Planting Depth: 1/4"-1/2"
  • Soil Temp. for Germ.: 55-80°F
  • Days to Germ.: 3-8
  • Plant Spacing: 12"-18"
  • Days to Maturity: 95-110
  • Full Sun
  • Moderate Water
 

Rotation and Companion Planting

  • Good companions: Beet, bush bean, carrot, celery, cucumber, lettuce, nasturtium, onion family, pea, potato, radish, spinach and tomato.
  • Bad companions: Kohlrabi, pole beans and strawberry
Brussels sprouts need a minimum of 6 hours of sunlight daily; more is better. They like fertile, well-drained, moist soils with plenty of organic matter. The soil pH should be on the high side of the range for vegetables, about 6.8, for optimum growth and to discourage club root disease.

 

 

 

 

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