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Cream of the Crop Acorn Winter Squash Seeds
Product Description
Cucurbita pepo
V-2725| 25 Seeds |
75 Days to Maturity.
AAS Winner. Customer Favorite that is back. Cream of the Crop F1 Acorn Squash Seeds produce compact bushes bearing cream-colored acorn squash with a creamy golden interior. Nutty flavor, this squash produces high yields of 3 lb acorn type squash. Suitable for home gardens and market growers. Bush type plant is suitable for small gardens. A winter squash variety that stores well. 25 seeds per package.
Before you can cure, you will need to know when your Pumpkins and Winter Squash are ready to be cured. Besides from their ripe mature color, the fruit has other clues that will let you know that the time to remove them from the dying plant is now. The most obvious cue is to look at the stem; if it has died off and turned hard you know that the fruits are ready. Cut your home-grown beauties free complete with 4 inches of the stem to ensure that a fail-safe seal at the top of the fruit. If heavy frosts threaten (a light frost won’t damage fruits) you will need to bring in all of your fruits, even if they are not quite ready. If you find yourself in this predicament don’t worry – just leave a bit more stem, including the 4 inch section of main stem that will leave a T-shaped handle. The additional stem will allow the fruit to form a proper seal between the stalk and the top of the fruit all in good time. Mostly handle the fruit carefully, especially do not handle by the delicate stem but handle the fruit by cupping it by placing in the palms of your hand or hands. By damaging the stem (holding the plant by it) you could have real trouble later by allowing outside molds and fungal spores to invade. By Storing squash, this simple process will save you money by serving up garden-fresh flavors in the heart of the winter months. Savory soups, sweet desserts, and steamy side dishes are some of the tastiest uses for winter squash, Just think that at Thanksgiving you can serve many dishes from your harvest.. Curing is the secret to successful long-term storage, and it’s almost as easy as harvesting. Curing is simple- just store your winter squash at a warm temperature with good air circulation for a period of time, usually 10 to 14 days. When you harvest winter squash, the mature fruits contain excess water. The process of curing squash allows some of that water to exit the fruit. A harvested winter squash continues to breathe or respire. During the curing process, the skin becomes harder, forming a protective layer over flesh. That harder skin slows respiration, which ultimately improves fruit keeping quality. Harder skin also resists rot better, another secret for problem-free long-term storage. Winter squash that requires curing includes Blue Hubbard, Buttercup, Butternut, and Spaghetti. Curing actually reduces storage life and quality of Acorn squash—no need to devote time or space to curing these. Getting rid of excess water does several things. Curing will take more than just a few days, space and lay down all of your winter fruits, put into a greenhouse or as sunny a location that you have after you have brushed off all the dirt, and let them sunbathe , after about 2 weeks flip them over and allow the bottoms to get a suntan as well. As the skins harden up further by the sun, they are creating a longer lasting seal. Their color will enrich as they become sweeter and have a more intense flavor. One final treatment before they are put into storage is a polish of olive oil that is applied with a cloth that will create a moisture tight finish. As other fruits and root vegetables that are being stored for the colder months, pumpkins and winter squash prefer a well ventilated dry place, however this is where the similarity ends, these thick skinned fruits are most happy kept at a room temperature of 68°F. So it can be either in a frost free out of the way out building or in some room in your home. Keep the fruits up and off of any hard surface. Like put them on a raised surface or a wire mesh that is on a thick layer of newspaper or straw. You need to have air circulating ALL around the fruit and than means the the resting area as well. And do not stack any of these fruits as this will reduce the airflow that will generate pressure points that will make them vulnerable to infection. Store them in a single layer and keep them well clear of other stored tree fruits, which can emit ethylene gas and speed the aging process If your crops are out in a garage or shed, check on them regularly. Look out for signs of mice, moles, squirrel etc, and treat then treat accordingly. Any fruits that look like they are turning should be used immediately.
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It concentrates the natural sugars, which makes the squash taste sweeter.
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It slows the fruit’s respiration rate, which enhances long-term storage.
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It helps reduce chances of rot.
- How you pick and handle winter squash directly affects how well they store. Follow these simple tips to ensure your squash cures and lasts well.
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Cure blemish-free fruit. If skin is broken or bruised, fruit won’t store well.
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Use scissors or pruners to cut squash from vines. Pulling can easily dislodge or break the stem, which creates a large wound on fruit that’s likely to rot.
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Maintain 2- to 3-inch-long stems on squash. If stems break off or loosen, fruit won’t store well. Use fruit with broken stems first and store others.
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Frost shortens storage life. A light frost can help sweeten some winter squash, but it drastically reduces storage life. Harvest all squash before night temperatures dip into the 40s.
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Keep squash dry. Don’t handle or harvest wet fruit.
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Gently remove any bits of blossom clinging to the bottom of squash
Vegetable Garden - Tips on Growing Winter Squash From Seed |
Many Garden Plants do not last long after they leave the garden, and why should they? We do not just grow vegetables for their looks, but because they provide nutritious and healthy food. We grow, we harvest and we eat. However Birdhouse Gourds just do not fit this formula. We grow them, we harvest them and then we cure them, carve them and hang them in a tree in hopes that a pair of birds will find the gourds and move into their new home. And when they do, we all take turns until the baby birds fly away. So we do not eat the birdhouse gourds, but they do provide food for the soul. DIRECT SOW:
In late Spring, after any danger of frost. Soil temperature should be at 70º F. Cooler temperatures can cause the seeds to rot. Sow 2-3 seeds every 18",in a row, cover ½" to 1" deep. Plant in hills that are spaced 4 ' apart with 4-5 seeds planted 1" deep. GROWING CONDITIONS:
Plant in rich well composted soil. Apply mulch to control the weeds before the vines begin to spread..
GARDEN HINTS:
Winter Squash will grow best in warm soil. |
TO SOW INDOORS
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To Direct Sow:
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USDA Hardiness Zone -First Frost Date- Last Frost Date
GROWING CONDITIONS:
NUTRIENT REQUIREMENTS
Rotation considerations
Gourds will grow in soils less fertile than squash or melons. In deep bottom-land soils, light applications of compost and minerals are acceptable. In marginal soils of sandy texture, slightly heavier feeding is needed. GARDEN HINTS:
In northern climates, start seeds in greenhouse 6-10 weeks before transplant time. Start 3 seeds in 6" pots, transplanting outside when weather is warm and plants are sizable. Most larger kinds need 120-180 days to mature in the north. In warmer climates, sow seed directly. Gourds are drought tolerant and need less water than melons, especially in the latter part of the growth cycle. |