Begonia x Benariensis
| 10 Pelleted Seeds Per Package |
The quickest-blooming, largest, most vigorous Begonia the world has ever seen!
Very large, early clusters of 2-3 inch blooms that stand above glossy bronze leaved foliage with nicely pointed tips. Dallas Arboretum FlameProof Award, meaning it can withstand Heat. What a pleasure to see that they flower all summer. This a new series that is part Angel WIng and part Fibrous Begonia which makes it quite unique. It is the quickest blooming and largest most vigorous Begonia ever. This color is a fire engine bright red that blends so well with the large elegant bronze foliage. Big Red reaches about 20 inches high and 24 inches wide that blooms in sun or in shade. Perfect for mass landscaping, edging or even containers. Perfect for almost any planting. Heat Tolerant and likes normal loamy soil. 10 Seeds per package.
Flower Garden-Tips on Growing Begonias From Seed
If you’re planning to grow begonias as an annual (put out in the spring and discard in the fall), there’s not much difference in how you grow them. Some varieties are more sun-tolerant than others, but for the most part you can just pick the one you like best. Give them bright light, a little sun protection in the heat of the day, and regular water, and enjoy!
Light: The most important thing you must have to be successful with seed is to have a fluorescent light setup to grow them under. You could conceivably start the seed on a windowsill. You usually won’t be successful growing seed without a light setup unless, of course, you have your own greenhouse. Seedlings require a great deal of even bright light in order to form compact robust seedlings and you won’t get that on a windowsill. You’ll get leggy one-sided seedlings that won’t transplant well and will probably not be strong enough to make it to maturity. Under artificial light they receive constant light from straight overhead so you won’t end up with those scraggly leaners like you would in a window. As far as the artificial light goes, you don’t need some fancy elaborate light stand.A bright spot with a little sun protection. Morning sun (and a little afternoon shade) is perfect. Wax begonias can tolerate more sun than other types, and the ones with bronze-colored leaves are the most sun-tolerant of all. Tuberous begonias prefer more shade and less heat, so we often see them on display in late summer.
Sow seed in either a cell pack or in flats, moisten the soil before gently pressing seeds (2) per cell. Do not cover the seed as light is needed for germination.Begonia seeds seem to prefer company and germinate and grow best will many in the pot. From my experience if you only have a few seeds in the pot they don’t thrive as well. If you plant too many seeds, you’ll have trouble separating them. Don’t cover the seed, begonia seed needs light to germinate. Use a spray bottle to lightly mist the surface of the pots after planting to make sure the seed makes good contact with the medium. I usually use the same fertilizer water in the spray bottle that I initially used to wet the mix. I keep the lights 6 inches or less from the top of the box and try to run them for at least 14 hours a day. I have left them on 24 hours a day with good results however. You may be more energy conscious. The seedlings vary in sprouting time depending on the variety and the age of the seed. They can come up in as quickly as 4 days or not for a month. I have heard it reported that some varieties take months to germinate.f your seedlings appear to be tall and leggy, you don’t have your lights close enough to the containers or are not leaving them on for enough hours. As stated before seedlings don’t grow well on windowsills. You should be growing them under artificial light unless you have a greenhouse.
Transplanting: Although seedlings can be transplanted just as soon as they come up, it is best to wait for them to get larger before transplanting unless you are experienced. When the seedlings first emerge, they have only a pair of equal sized leaves. These are the seedling leaves and nourish the plantlet until it has formed enough roots to support itself. The seedlings at this point have only one little root trying to work its way into the soil. After planting, I give them a misting with the spray bottle as with the seed. If you soaked the mix properly in the first place, they shouldn’t need any further watering until they are ready for the next transplanting.If any start to die or rot, you have the mix too wet or not sterile enough, so open the lid a crack to let it dry out some. If that doesn’t work and they are still dying off, as a last resort spray them with a fungicide to try and kill the fungus problem the too wet conditions created. Don’t be discouraged if you have some failures. Count those as learning experiences and try again. About a month or month and a half from that first transplanting they should have grown to fill the surface of the tray. It’s time to move them up again. At this stage they are running out of food and are becoming too crowded. They’ll either just sit there and not grow any more or they’ll get leggy and be hard to make into nice plants or to transplant.
Soil: Fertilize regularly.
|Temperature: Grow on at 65-75° days and 62-65° nights. Impatiens are very temperature sensitive: above 85° will cause plants to stretch, while below 60° will delay flowering and slow growth, and below 55° will cause chill injury.|
|Indoor planting: Site in full sun or bright light in a rich soil. remove dead flowers and leaves to tidy plants, pinch growth to increase branching and promote a tight habit, and do not allow plants to dry out.|
With its vigorous habit and prolific flower display from summer to frost, it is used in borders, in bedding and edging situations, in planters and hanging baskets,