Silver King F1 Sweet Corn Seeds -se type
Silver King F1 Sweet Corn matures earlier than the popular Silver
Queen. Ears are 8 inches long on sturdy 6-7 foot plants. Has good disease tolerance. Isolation is required
to avoid cross pollination.
Package (150 seeds).
T = Treated Seed
A treated seed is no different than giving a child a vaccination shot when
they are young. The seed is given a protected cover to insure higher
germination rate once it is planted in soil that may contain many
bacteria and fungi. If the seed is not treated, the conditions in the
soil can lower the germination rate or destroy the young seedling.
Vegetable Garden – Tips on Growing Sweet Corn From Seed
- Corn Seed Depth: 1" (2.5cm)
- Germination soil temperature: 80º F (27ºC)
- Days to Germination: 4
- Sow indoors: Not recommended
- Sow outdoors: 1 week after last frost
- pH range: 6.0-7.0
- Growing soil temperature: 65-75º F (18-24ºC)
- Spacing in beds :8".
- Watering: Moderate early, then heavy from flowering to harvest.
- Light: Full sun
- Nutrient requirements: N= high, P=high, K=high
- Rotation considerations: Precede with nitrogen fixing cover crop
- Good Companions: Bush beans, beet, cabbage, cantaloupe, cucumber, pea, parsley, pumpkin, squash.
- Bad Companions: Tomato
Sweet Corn will need plenty of space for 2 reasons:
Corn plants need a place in the garden that will get full sun and has fertile, well-drained soil with a pH of 6.0 to 6.8. Seedlings can be set out as soon as the last spring frost has passed. Space transplants of larger-growing varieties 8 to 12 inches apart. In case of a surprise late frost, be prepared to cover seedlings with a fabric row cover.
- One it is a heavy feeder, and it is primarily pollinated by wind. As the grains of pollen are shed by the tassels that grow from the plants' tops, they must first find their way to the delicate strands of silk that emerge from newly formed ears. To make sure that the silks are nicely showered with pollen, grow corn in blocks of short rows rather than in a long, single row. In a small garden, 15 plants set 1 foot apart can be grown in a 3 x 5-foot bed. Growing corn on this tiny scale is a good way to introduce yourself to the crop if you’ve never grown it. After the first year you will probably want to increase the size of the planting to at least 4 rows 10 feet long.
- Corn plants are not like tomatoes and most other vegetables that bear over a long period. Instead, they form a few ears per stalk and they are finished. Because of this, gardeners who have the space often make 2 or 3 plantings 2 weeks apart to keep the harvest coming.
In cold climates you can plant in a raised bed covered with black plastic (infrared transmitting plastic) that will warm the soil. If possible, lay the plastic a week or so before planting.
Plan to fertilize twice because corn is a hungry plant. Before setting out seedlings, amend the soil with compost and mix a balanced organic or timed-release fertilizer into the soil. About a cup of 10-10-10 per 10 feet of row is a good general rate, but trumps that with the rates given on the label of any fertilizer you are using. About 6 weeks or so later, when the plants start to produce tassels, fertilize them again. (If you amend the soil with cottonseed meal or other high-nitrogen amendment, it may not be necessary to feed the second time.) Use a hoe or trowel to mix the fertilizer into the top inch of soil between the plants. After this booster feeding, water your corn weekly if the weather is hot and dry.
Normal plants should grow fast with dark green healthy leaves. Corn will tell you if it is hungry by turning very light green. If so, feed again.
Corn grows fast and needs lots of water to grow properly. It also has shallow roots that make it susceptible to drought. Soaker hoses will insure that your corn gets the water it needs. However, for a large planting, soaker hoses may not be practical, in which case you will need a sprinkler or two with a large coverage area.
Native Americans in arid climates planted corn in basins to catch spring rainwater and help keep the corn roots down where water would be available longer. The basin was about 4 inches deep and 2 to 3 feet wide with a raised ridge made from the excavated soil around it. Plants were arranged so that they formed a spiral from the center to help with support in wind and with pollination. If you live in an arid climate or a hot climate and have poor sandy soil, as in the Coastal Plain, this technique could help insure a good harvest.
Most corn plants will yield at least 2 ears per stalk. Hybrids may yield more.
It can be hard to know when an ear of corn is ready to harvest because you can’t see inside the husk. Look at the silks. They should be brown and dry with just a little fresh green at the base. Squeeze the husk to see if the ear inside feels plump, not skinny. If the ear seems ripe, check by peeling just enough of the husk back to expose a couple of inches of the ear. Poke a kernel with your fingernail. The corn is ready to pick if it bleeds a light milky sap like skim milk. If the liquid is clear, the ear is not ready. Ears that are too ripe will look too milky, like cream versus skim milk; they often taste starchy. Of course, remove them, too.
Perfectly ripened ears also taste sugary-sweet when sampled raw. When possible, harvest sweet corn in the morning, when the ears are cool. To remove the ear, use one hand to hold the corn stalk and the other to pull the ear down and away from the stalk, twisting a little until it breaks off.
Place harvested ears in the refrigerator right away. When kept chilled, ears will hold their sweet flavor for up to a week. Extra-sweet corn can be blanched and frozen, on or off the cob.
Allow ears of grain corn to stay on the plants until the husks dry to tan. Gather them during a period of dry weather, and pull back the husks before using the ears as seasonal decorations. Remove all husks before storing dried ears for the winter in a cool, dry place.
Corn plants that are blown over by gusty storms usually right themselves after a few days of sunny weather. As you shuck and clean your corn, pop off ear tips damaged by corn earworms.
The different types of corn should not be allowed to cross-pollinate. That means that standard, open pollinated types, and super-sweet types need to be planted in such a way that pollen from one type does not reach another type. If you or a nearby neighbor grow multiple types, be sure that they are isolated by at least 250 feet or that their timing is such that they are not in bloom at the same time. If not, the pollen from types that are not the same can muddy their characteristics to the point of ruining sweetness and flavor.
USDA Hardiness Zone -First Frost Date- Last Frost Date
- Zone 1 -July 15th -June 15th
- Zone 2 -August 15th- May 15th
- Zone 3 -September 15th May 15th
- Zone 4 -September 15th May 15th
- Zone 5 -October 15th April 15th
- Zone 6 -October 15th April 15th
- Zone 7 -October 15th April 15th
- Zone 8 -November 15th March 15th
- Zone 9 -December 15th February 15th
- Zone 10 -December 15th January 31st (sometimes earlier)
- Zone 11 -No frost. No frost.
A Note about Isolation
- The reason for isolating super sweet(sh2) types is the same as isolating white from yellow corn, but more important because of how the ear of corn will be affected. The sh2 types are isolated to prevent cross pollination with normal sugary sweet corn or field corn. Isolation is done by one of three methods.
- By maturity 10 days to tow weeks.
- By distance of 100-150 feet upwind.
- A barrier planting.