A reliable favorite for Summer and Fall Color in borders, containers, masses in the landscape.. Attracts Butterlies and Bees. Ageratum can also be grown as a winter annual in mild-winter climates. Best in rich, moist soil. Easy to transplant even when in bloom.Low growers make an excellent edge or border as it has a dense growing habit, and it contrasting colors blend with other annuals of similar size. All of our Ageratum is pelleted, as this seed is very small.
Fields Blue Ageratum Seeds
Vigorous compact, mounded plants, spread up to 30cm (12 inches) across, smothered with unusual,light to medium blue flowers. Outstanding garden performance in borders or containers, flowering all summer.
High Tide Blue Ageratum Seeds
Compact, 12-16" medium green-leafed plants are well rounded and vigorous.This plant produced prolific blooms all season without necessary deadheading. They withstood high temperatures without wilting or showing stress. Unlike other ageratums, we did not have any mildew problems even when it was hot and humid.
Flower Seeds - Tips on Growing Ageratum from Seed
Here are some important stages in the growing of Ageratum Seeds.
Stage 1 is called the Radical or (Embryonic Root) stage.
To Sow Indoors:
- Germination will take from 4-10 days if all requirements are meant.
- Keep your media source moist and almost at the saturation level by watering before you place your seed.
- Press the seed or seeds lightly in soil and cover very lightly, as Ageratum seed does not need light for germination.
- Importance for the germination temperature at this stage should be 72 to 75ºF (22 to 24ºC).
- The light levels at 100 to 400 fc (foot candles) will enhance your germination process. (see below for foot candles information)
- The soil pH should be 5.5 to 6.2 with soluble salts (EC of .50-0.75 ). It is also important to keep the ammonium levels less than 10 ppm. (parts per million)
- Maintain a 95 – 97% relative humidity during this time.
Stage 2 is referred to the Hypocotyls or (Stem and cotyledon emergence) stage.
Timing of this emergence is 10-14 days.
- First start by reducing moisture levels once the radical emergence occurs (stage 1). From this point on allow the soil to dry out slightly before watering again, this will aid in the germination and rooting process.
- Important that the temperatures at this point be from 68 to 75ºF (20 to 24ºC).
- The soil pH at this stage should be 5.5 to 6.2 with soluble salts ( EC of .50-.075).
- Maintain your light levels at high during this time period and keep temperatures in control.
Stage 3 is commonly know as the Cotyledon stage where the (Growth and development of true leaves) occur.
Timing of this growth 14-21 days.
- You must maintain the soil pH at 5.5 to 6.2 with the soluble salts ( EC .75-1.00)
- You can however increase your feed at this point to 50 ppm N- using a complete balanced fertilizer. Increase the nitrogen concentration to 100ppm after a week and continue with this program until you are ready to transplant.
- It is very important to alternate your fertilizing feed schedule with every 2 -3 clear water irrigations so you maintain the root system. Do not allow plants to wilt, as this will cause drought stress and burn the leaves
- The temperature for days should be between 65-72ºF (18-22ºC).
- Keep light levels high during this time period and keep temperatures in control. This will help in the production of producing a well branched plant.
- Ageratum are very sensitive to high salts so do not overfeed.
Stage 4 Known as the Getting ready for transplant or growing on period
- Do allow the soil to dry thoroughly; but not to the level however that would wilt the plants.
- Do keep your temperatures maintained at for Days at 70-80ºF (21-27ºC) and for nights at 58-62ºF (14-17ºC)
- Maintain the soil pH at 5.8 to 6.2 with the soluble salts ( EC between 1.5-2.50)
- You can continue to fertilize at a feed level at 150 to 200ppm N with a complete balanced fertilizer as needed, however the pH and the EC must be maintained as stated.
- Ageratum do not require a high feed level; they prefer a low to moderate level. By having excessive amounts of feed your plant will result will be lush and vegetative stretched seedlings. This is what you do NOT want.
- A good option would be to have a low feed program without having any salt accumulation for the plant.
For the growing on to finish stage:
- Night temperature: 58-62ºF (14-17ºC)
- Day temperature: 70-80ºF (21-27ºC)
USDA Hardiness Zone -First Frost Date- Last Frost Date
- Zone 1 -July 15th -June 15th
- Zone 2 -August 15th- May 15th
- Zone 3 -September 15th May 15th
- Zone 4 -September 15th May 15th
- Zone 5 -October 15th April 15th
- Zone 6 -October 15th April 15th
- Zone 7 -October 15th April 15th
- Zone 8 -November 15th March 15th
- Zone 9 -December 15th February 15th
- Zone 10 -December 15th January 31st (sometimes earlier)
- Zone 11 _No frost. No frost.
Terms and their meaning:
- EC=Electrical Conductivity
Plant injury resulting from excessive soluble salts may first occur as a mild chlorosis of the foliage, later progressing to a necrosis of leaf tips and margins. This type of injury is largely attributed to the mobility of soluble salts within the plant. As these salts are rapidly translocated throughout the plant, they accumulate at the leaf tips and margins. Once the salts reach a toxic level they cause the characteristic "burn" associated with excessive salts. For an accurate reading get an EC meter.
Soluble salts in irrigation water are measured in terms of electrical conductivity (EC). The higher the salt content the greater the EC. In general EC values exceeding 2.0 are considered toxic to plant growth. Monitor your water quality frequently in order to avoid potential problems from soluble salts.
- FC=Foot Candles
Light intensity is a primary factor in the photosynthesis of all plants. Full unobstructed sunlight has an intensity of about 10,000 fc. Where as an overcast day will produce an intensity of around 1,000 fc. A window sill or light around a window or patio glass door can range from 100 to 5,000 depending of course what direction the light source is facing, or the time of year and your latitude.
- PPM=Parts Per Million
This unit of measure is relatively unique to the greenhouse industry and often there is some confusion on how ppm is calculated.
I. To calculate the ppm contained in 1 ounce of material first solve for B:
A x 75 = B
A = the % active ingredient (AI) in the fertilizer
B = ppm contained in 1 ounce of the material in 100 gallons of water
Example: Calcium nitrate contains 15% N (0.15 x 75 = 11.25). If 1 ounce of calcium nitrate is dissolved in 100 gallons of water the solution will contain a II. To calculate the number of ounces of material required to make up a desired ppm concentration solve for C:
C = Desired ppm conc. / B
B = ppm contained in 1 ounce of the material in 100 gallons of water (from above).
C = number of ounces of material to add to 100 gallons of water to achieve the desired concentration.
Example: To make up a 250 ppm solution of calcium nitrate first multiply the AI x 75 (.15 x 75 = 11.25). Next divide the desired concentration by 11.25 (250/11.25 = 22). To make up a 250 ppm solution of calcium nitrate you would add 22 ounces to 100 gallons of water.
Approximately 11.25 ppm N.